designSUPERMARKET presents the exhibition Shenkar: Israeli jewelry today that we prepared together with Danica Kovářová, a curator of design and architecture and an editor-in-chief of Dolce Vita magazine. In a special installation by Matěj Činčera and Jan Kloss, in which paper Colorplan plays the main role, we presented collections by seven graduates of the prestigious Shenkar university in Tel Aviv.
“In 2015, the Jewelry department at the Shenkar University in Tel Aviv, led by sculptor and performer Sharon Keren, has reported an extraordinary level of their graduates. The theses draw their inspiration from – for us often a distant and exotic life experience. The process of their creation was for the authors also a process of new knowledge, often self-knowledge. The presented works play with the boundaries of the inner and outer, biological and technical, with the set limits, both social and cultural. The works themselves often cross the borders of jewelry and are more objects of fine art.”
Exhibition curators: Danica Kovářová, Darina Zavadilová
Exhibition design: Matěj Činčera, Jan Kloss
Presented authors: Vika Mayzel, Noa Farbstein, Shiran Shashua, Adi Sharon, Ayala Uzan, Gal Barsheshet,
Lia Elnatan, Yarden Aizic Halimi
Photo: Matěj Činčera
The “Trespass” collection is touching our boundaries. They are physical, spiritual and emotional, formed by cultural, social and geographical differences. The designer has chosen to cross these boundaries and create metal structures that will give a new volume to the human body and give it new limits, and at the same time disrupt our standardized perception on jewelry. They don’t have to be worn just on an ear, neck or wrist…
The “What is the limit?” collection has been inspired by the author’s experience with compulsory military service in Israel, to which even women are called when they turn 18. “My body has instantly become property of the Israeli army, There was no room for self-expression, and you weren’t allowed to make drastic changes in your external appearance. I wanted to express the need for freedom and the restrictions imposed on you as a soldier. The airiness of the light fibers is in contrast with the silver framing and expresses the feeling of freedom that was taken away from you, but at the same time, both materials remain in symbiosis.”
The collection “Don’t be a Square” refers to several inspirational sources. Lia Elnatan has recently graduated with a Bachelor of Design (Jewelry) at Shenkar College of Engineering and Design. Her inspiration derives from architectural structures that through her jewelry create a bold new world for the wearer, giving them a sense of innovation and uniqueness. It also derives from the well- known 80’s computer game Tetris, and also from monumental royal jewelry from ancient Egypt. Lia has created the jewelry by disassembling a pipe, which she has changed into geometrical objects thanks to cuts under di erent angles. She did so thanks to using mathematical equations in order to be precise and to respect the ergonomics of the human body – to make these objects wearable.
The “Memory” collection can be literally identified as an accepted heritage. The necklaces, bracelets and pendants have been recreated from an old Persian rug, purchased by the designer’s family many years ago, but which has gone through several refurbishments and could be restored no more. Noa has refused to throw it out and instead decided to recycle it into modern jewelry and thus give this piece of textile new life and also respects its history. The story of the family and the material continues …
The “Split Ends” collection combines two contrasting materials – split and sculpted brass pipes and premium handmade paper. Psychology refers to the split or cut as a mechanism of defence, designed to help us deal with an emotional conflict and with which we absolutely divide into good or evil, black or white. All jewelry in the collection is handmade and combine the seemingly incompatible.
The “Knocking on the Wood” collection is inspired by superstition and the national Georgian folk costume. “Each piece of jewelry from the collection in inspired by stories that are passed down for generations in my family. To Georgia, where my grandparents, as well as many other Ukrainian Jews, were evacuated during the Second World War to be spared from the Nazi threats. They have never spoken much about this time of their life, so I decided to fill the gaps in my memories.” The jeweller has used material such as glass, horsehair or garnet stones. The choice of colors, form and ancient metalworking technique called the Repoussé has all been inspired by the Georgian national folk costume.
The “Monomental” collection is inspired by aerial photographs of railroad tracks, which Yarden studied thoroughly. She has been fascinated by the moments when their lines unite. Such profiles and functional and mobile junctions can also be found in the human body. The second part of this collection presents Swarovski crystals that have been set in jewelry without soldering. The colors are monochromatic and solely black and silver appears in the collection.
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